Improved dyeability with wood-based textile fiber

Textiles made from Biocelsol fibers require less dye for the darker shade in the final textile and provide possibility to use the salt-free dyeing saving the environment.

One third of textile industry effluents are generated in dyeing and one fifth in finishing. The use of chemically modified Biocelsol fibers will reduce the effluents. A knitwear was made from Viscose and Biocelsol fibers. It was dyed after knitting. The Biocelsol fibers got darker shade with the same amount of dye and without salt in dyeing. Additionally, interesting visual effect was created.

How it works in practice

In the production of Biocelsol fibres, enzymatic pre-treatment increases the porosity of the cellulose fibres. Besides chemical modification and functionalization with amino group improve dye exhaustion and lasting. In practice, this means that the same shade can be achieved with lower amount of dye. In addition, dyeing can be performed without the use of salt that will reduce the environmental impact of textile dyeing. Instead of amino group, other type of functionalities can be attached to improve finishing of the fibres. For example fire-retardant chemicals, treatment to give hydrophobic, hydrophilic or antimicrobial properties for the textiles. The desired functional groups in the fibres can be attached before or after the textile processes. Typically, the formed functionality is more permanent than traditional finishing treatments.

Economic opportunities and broader social significance

Majority of current textile fibres are produced from oil-based raw materials and thus have a role in global warming and micro plastic issue. Biocelsol fibres can replace oil-based fibres and fibres, which production utilizes harmful and toxic chemicals, for example viscose fibres. Wood pulp can be used as a raw material in the production of Biocelsol fibres. Beside other cheaper cellulose based raw materials can be used such as recycled paper and board, waste textiles and straw. The functionalization of Biocelsol fibres provides possibility to tailor made textile properties for different uses. In addition, the functionalization of Biocelsol fibres decrease the cost of textile finishing and dyeing as well as effluent load.

Further information

VTT has developed together with TUT Biocelsol technology and is responsible for up-scaling and commercialization of the technology. Biocelsol dress has been done together with Aalto University in FinnCERES project funded by Academy of Finland.The prototype outfit is designed by Susanna Raiskio, Aalto University. Photo: Mikko Raskinen, Aalto University